Living among the ruins, in immaculate shanty lean-tos or plastic and corrugated iron shacks are some of the friendliest and most inquisitive people we have met during our sojourn by boat.
Dolphins peel off into the navy blue sea, and a hitch-hiking tern flies away. Balancing high up on the boom, Jamie peers into the now crystal water, navigating by sight – and the seat of his pants.