Sadla, Eritrea: Notes on a Small Island

Mar 012010

The ultimate paradise island? We thought so. To get there just follow this position: Lon: 041 55.81E Lat: 13 52.77N

Since completing our 4500 mile sail from Turkey to India Jamie and I have been asked, on frequent occasions, what our ‘best’ experience was. It’s an impossible question to answer: the historic sites of Egypt, dugongs in Sudan, the children in Massawa, the warmth of the African people and the welcome in Aden jostle for position. But the first time it was asked our gut reaction – like the other crews on the rally – was “Sadla Island”.
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Raggedy Trousered Fishermen

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Feb 242010

With twenty knots of wind on the nose, and a broken autopilot, we took it in turns to helm. Our ancient Perkins engine was finding the confused, crashing sea hard going, and the tumbling waves and strong currents meant only a few minutes of snatched sleep in the past forty hours. Eritrea’s unlit coastline offered no haven, but it would be dangerous to move too far off-shore – you don’t know who or what might be lurking out there – so we hugged land.
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Massawa to Asmara by Bus

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Feb 072010

In the seat next to me, my neighbour coolly stares ahead as a large male baboon, blocking the open window, bares its teeth inches from his face. Fear fills the bus. Women silence their children. The rest of the screeching monkeys are blocking the closed door, putting paid to any idea of escape. I close my eyes and wonder why I have chosen to travel to Asmara by bus, instead of a nicely air-conditioned taxi.
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