Sadla, Eritrea: Notes on a Small Island

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Mar 012010
 

The ultimate paradise island? We thought so. To get there just follow this position: Lon: 041 55.81E Lat: 13 52.77N

Since completing our 4500 mile sail from Turkey to India Jamie and I have been asked, on frequent occasions, what our ‘best’ experience was. It’s an impossible question to answer: the historic sites of Egypt, dugongs in Sudan, the children in Massawa, the warmth of the African people and the welcome in Aden jostle for position. But the first time it was asked our gut reaction – like the other crews on the rally – was “Sadla Island”.
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Raggedy Trousered Fishermen

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Feb 242010
 

With twenty knots of wind on the nose, and a broken autopilot, we took it in turns to helm. Our ancient Perkins engine was finding the confused, crashing sea hard going, and the tumbling waves and strong currents meant only a few minutes of snatched sleep in the past forty hours. Eritrea’s unlit coastline offered no haven, but it would be dangerous to move too far off-shore – you don’t know who or what might be lurking out there – so we hugged land.
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AK47s for breakfast: at Gunpoint in Eritrea

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Feb 242010
 

“Go! Go! GO!”

I emerge through layers of sleep to the sound of shouting and something metallic rat-a-tat-tatting against our hull. It’s just after dawn, and we are anchored in the Red Sea near the border between Eritrea and Djibouti. Alarmed at the potential damage being done to our yacht, Jamie rushes up on deck. He stops dead: three ragtag men are waving semi-automatic weapons at him.
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Searching for Mermaids

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Jan 102010
 

As the reef rushes towards me, I grip the slippery stainless steel wheel, my hands sweating and prickling with fear. The sea moves from lapis lazuli to sapphire, then turquoise, emerald and jade, finally fracturing into a myriad piercing colours. I’ve no time to admire its beauty; I must hold my course. Jamie shouts words of encouragement.

“For God’s sake concentrate!”
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